Tbilisi Photo Trail
The following is a story of Tblisi. It’s told through the eyes of the people I met, each connected to the next through the myriad of connected relationships.
Temuri Kuliani
It all began with Temuri Kuliani. I found him drinking coffee and smoking cigarettes late one evening outside his art gallery, Kon Tiki.
Temura Kuliani and portraits, Tblisi 2022
Left: When Temuri isn’t painting, you will find him on this chair drinking coffee and smoking cigarettes with friends.
Right: Excellent rusty stairs.
Temuri Kuliani at work late into the night. Tblisi, 2023
The Grand Tour. Temuri, showing me around the backyard.
Temuri was an artist born in Tblisi in the 50s, while it was under Soviet control. He studied art in Moscow, came top of his class. These days he runs a gallery whose crumbling walls appear to burst with enticing secrets. The building had been owned by a Jewish Family before they left. Through Temuri I learned of the sizeable Jewish community that has long-lived in harmony in Georgia.
Nestan Kvinikadze
Temuri led me to the writer, TV host and activist Nestan Kvinikadze. She chose to meet me at the Giorgi Leonidze State Museum of Georgian Literature and spent the day as the most perfect guide. Through Nestan I learned of Georgia’s long and rich history of Georgian literature, and equally long history of struggle against oppression.
Nestan (Nene) Kvinikadze, 2022
The house had a printing press in the basement and was used as meeting place for writers, to the disdain of the Soviets.
Through Nestan I learned about Georgia’s unique struggle with Russian oppression in history and today. Many ordinary Georgian’s are vocal in their pro-Ukranian stance.
Kordze
Nestan led me to her friend, the musician Kordze. I met Kordze in his apartment and we went for a walk to the park that overlooks the city right opposite outside his house.
Kordze represents a generation of Georgians who left, but returned. He was born to a mother who had moved to Europe in order to pursue a career that would have been impossible to realise in Georgia. This was apparently very common.
Kordze went excelled at the music acadamy in Switzerland and works with artists from a variety of genres across Europe.
Goerge Gvarjaladze
Kordze led me to his collaborator and friend, Goerge Gvarjaladze. We arranged to meet in his recording studio, a massive Soviet era Film Studio.
George dedicates his work in memory of his daughter, who commited suicide. He works tirelessly in raising awareness of the issue and struggles his daughter faced.
George introduced me to Iliko Sukhishvili, his creative partner and a renowned choreographer. Iliko's roots lie in the world of expressive movement, having inherited his parents' ballet academy and grown up immersed in traditional Georgian dance. As he came of age, Iliko carved his unique path by infusing folk music with a modern twist. Embracing the spotlight, he continues to honor his family's heritage on the global stage, contributing a fresh chapter to the rich tapestry of Georgian dance.
